St.
Barts: Beauty and the Beach Chic and refined, yet relaxed and so serene,
St. Barts combines the best of all things French
with the laid-back style of the Caribbean.
The island of St. Barts in the French West Indies.
By Colly Andrew
Just what makes St. Barts (or St. Barths or St. Barthélemy)
so special? Why do people who go there just keep going
back, oblivious to other Caribbean islands or even
to the luxury winter watering holes in the U.S.? Let’s
face it: St. Barts is about eight square miles of volcanic
rock, scrubby hillsides rising up from roller-coaster
roads that defy driving after a couple of glasses of
wine at dinner, and airplane access that redefines
heart-stopping. So why the hubbub?
This petite island in the French West Indies – once
the whisperingly private enclave of Rothschilds, Rockefellers and artists the likes of Twyla Tharp, Mikhail Baryshnikov and Lauren Hutton – has become increasingly popular,
with a seductive allure more powerful than ever. More
villas dot the densely developing hillsides, more traffic
certainly beep-beeps in Smart Cars and rusted Mini-Mokes,
more epicurean bistros vie for your dining euro, and
more breathlessly gorgeous, size-two French girls saunter
the beaches seemingly unaware of their wow factor.
Known as the trendy Caribbean destination for glamourazzi
and celebrities, St. Barts actually provides an experience
that is natural, uncontrived, elegantly casual and
serene. It’s a safe, magical, warm and welcoming
place. Whether you see yourself as Uma Thurman or Ugly
Betty, being on St. Barts translates into losing inhibitions,
stripping pretenses and inhaling confidence. The French
call it bien-être – the state of well-being – and
it can be addictive.
The Eden Rock is located on a rocky promontory surrounded
by a coral reef on St. Jean Bay.
St. Barts Address
Book
LODGING Eden Rock,
05 90 29 79 99; www.edenrockhotel.com
DINING Carl Gustaf,
05 90 29 79 47 La Case de l’Isle,
05 90 27 61 81 L’Esprit
Salines,
05 90 52 46 10 Le Gaïac,
05 90 27 88 88 Maya’s
Restaurant,
05 90 27 75 53
SHOPPING Carat,
05 90 27 67 22 Diamond Genesis,
05 90 27 66 94 Donna del Sol,
05 90 27 90 53 Pati St. Barth,
05 90 27 59 06 Stéphane
et Bernard,
05 90 27 65 69
St. Barts is intrinsically beautiful and proportionate.
The 22 beaches and coves that hug every turn in the
landscape are pristine, crystal clear, white granular
sanded and diverse – providing bistros, people-watching
and watersports (St. Jean), surf, swimming and privacy
(Saline, Flamands and Gouverneur),
sandcastle-building for
families and small
children (L’Orient and
Grand Cul de Sac), crashing surf and pounding sprays
(Toiny) and perfect
places for gazing at sunsets and
lingering into the early twilight (Shell Beach). Of
course, each area is populated with some of the most
attractive young families and hip locals imaginable.
Proportionate also describes the hotel scene. With
no hotel taller than a palm tree and most offerings
fewer than 15 rooms, St. Barts is home to chic boutique
hotels rather than resort complexes.
The true signature hotel on St. Barts, hands down,
is the Eden Rock, a historic
hotel regarded as one of the finest in the Caribbean.
Perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop that bisects
popular St. Jean beach into two distinct halves, Eden
Rock has become the postcard definition of St. Barthélemy.
Originally the hotel home of St. Barts’s legendary
Rémy de Haenan – founder of the airstrip
and father of its tourism influx – Eden Rock
has undergone a $25-million renovation by celebrity
British owners David and Jane Matthews, who purchased
it in 1995.
The newly redecorated property features 33 highly individual
accommodations in the main Rock building as well as
on St. Jean Beach, all with handpicked antiques and
artwork. On the rock is the Greta Garbo Suite, with its amazing bed, wrap-around terrace and
spectacular bay views. Beach accommodations include
the 3,200-square-foot Big Beach House, which
features a private pool, a Jacuzzi, two baths and a
terrace, and Waterlily, a 2,370-square-foot
beach bungalow with a private infinity pool overlooking
the bay.
Eden Rock is the epicenter of beachside action, with
a Champagne breakfast and lunch offered at the casual
Sand Bar, and breezy-evening fusion dinners with some
of the best sunset vistas imaginable at the more elegant
On the Rocks. It just doesn’t get any more romantic
than lingering over petit ponch at a rock-inset table,
hearing the waves lap against the stony precipice and
following searchlight beams trained out over bobbing
boats on their moorings. French chef Jean-Claude Dufour has overseen both restaurants for more than eight years.
Celebrity sightings are commonplace: Chevy Chase, Mariah
Carey, Tom Hanks, Lorne Michaels and even the late
Greta Garbo all have enjoyed the activity that prevails
at Eden Rock and its restaurants.
The authentic St. Barts experience is to stay in a
vacation villa and live like a local. Stunning villas perched panoramically on the St.
Jean hillside or overlooking Gustavia feature breathtaking
views, comfort, convenience and privacy. With a daily
maid, in-villa spa treatments and every possible amenity
imaginable, you can enjoy a full St. Barts home-away-from-home
(or home better than home!) vacation. What could be
better than waking up to take a refreshing dip in your
own private pool, watching the day unfold from your
chaise longue looking out over the island, and considering
where among so many options you might venture for lunch
in the true French style?
Top: The Eden Rock’s 2,370-square-foot Waterlily
beachfront house offers its own private infinity pool
overlooking St. Jean Bay. Center: The Eden Rock’s
Greta Garbo Suite’s dramatic bed features a six-foot-high,
hand-sewn white leather headboard – a tribute
to the Hollywood-style glamour of the 1930s. Bottom:
The Eden Rock’s three-bedroom, 3,200-square-foot
Big Beach House boasts a private swimming pool, a Jacuzzi,
two bathrooms and a terrace.
With more than 68 gastronomic choices, eating is truly
the defining aspect of the St. Barts day, and choosing
between one bistro and another fantastic restaurant
is the most important decision. One wonders how the
French metropoles who live and work in this paradise
stay so svelte. Tops on our list for lunch include
the Sand Bar at Eden Rock and La Case de l’Isle at Flamands Beach. The best romantic dinners are found
at Maya’s Restaurant, Le Toiny’s Le Gaïac or L’Esprit Salines on the other side of the
island. Certainly the best twilight cocktails are found
at Carl Gustaf, where sunsets over the picture-perfect
harbor are superlative. There’s probably no better
place on the globe than Gustavia Harbor for watching
the most glamorous yachts lit up in the evening.
By enduring treaty since the Swedes transferred posession
of St.Barts to the French in 1878, the island remains
a duty-free port. That means duty-free shopping – not
necessarily inexpensive – for some of the best
consumer goods one can imagine. Jewelry? It just doesn’t
get any better than this, with branches of Cartier,
Bulgari and local jewelers like Donna del Sol, Carat and Diamond Genesis. Fashions from Paris? Try the signature
boutiques of Roberto Cavalli, Hermès, Ralph
Lauren, Manual Canovas, Blanc et Bleu or Stéphane
et Bernard. Favorite islandwear includes the funky
and casual. Just walking around the town of Gustavia
brings options of linen shirts, Thai drawstring pants,
pareos and some of the sexiest lingerie around – the
smaller the item, the more euros on its price tag.
Pati St. Barth, with stores in multiple locations,
supplies the best tee-shirts and islandwear and seems
to have a corner on authentic St. Barts goods to take
back home. Among the best finds: lotions and body tonics
from La Ligne St. Barth, made from all-natural island
ingredients – St. Barts’s only true export.
If the intoxicating island beauty, bonne cuisine and
exclusive shopping aren’t enough, exceptional
entertainment in an informal setting – the 2007St. Barts Music Festival (held from January 24 through
February 7) – just might be what you need to
finish off a breezy evening. Since 1984, St. Barts
has hosted a performing arts festival, featuring concerts
by the international stars of classical music, opera,
ballet and jazz (www.stbartsmusicfestival.org).
Is this bien-être? You bet. Life doesn’t
get more bien than this!
Photo credit: Image 1,Courtesy of Eden Rock, St. Barts
Spectacular
Mountaintop Estate
Situated at the highest point in St. Barts, this
peaceful luxury compound features breathtaking
vistas, privacy and quick access to beautiful beaches
and all that the town of Gustavia has to offer.
The villa’s four air-conditioned bedrooms
have en-suite bathrooms, outside showers and private
terraces. The master bedroom has a spa/Jacuzzi,
an independent satellite TV receiver, a sound system
and a desk with a fax and computer connection.
The property’s inner courtyard is a beautiful
tropical garden with a view though the house to
the ocean. Other features include a gourmet kitchen,
an outdoor dinning and barbecue area, a multilevel
pool adjacent to the living room, and a coded entry
system.
One of St. Barts’s most exclusive private
villas with spectacular harbor views boasts
a central, convenient downtown location, and
is just minutes away from Shell Beach, a protected
cove. The villa features luxury-hotel guest
privileges, including room service and the
use of an infinity pool, a Jacuzzi, a fitness
room and the beach. The seven-bedroom property
accommodates 13 guests, and is exquisitely
furnished with mahogany wood. The entry foyer
has beautiful tiled floors, with a magnificent
spiral staircase. There is an expansive dining-room
area, a large, fully equipped kitchen, a very
large terrace with a barbecue, a quiet mezzanine,
a home office area, a large living area and
laundry facilities.
