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COOKBOOKS WITH PANACHE
Essence of Chocolate
By John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg

Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker founders John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg share their passion for everything chocolate in Essence of Chocolate (Hyperion, 2006, $35). Interspersed with engaging pieces of chocolate lore are recipes from top chefs, including Thomas Keller and Jacques Pépin.


FUDGY BROWNIES
Makes sixteen 2-inch brownies.

Fudgy Brownies

INGREDIENTS

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter,  
   cut into cubes, plus more for the pan
8 ounces 70% bittersweet chocolate,
   coarsely chopped
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup toasted walnut halves  

Robert developed this recipe, but when the brownies came out of our test kitchen oven, they didn't have their usual glossy, crackled top and fudgy texture. The cookbook crew asked Robert to make the brownies while they watched. We realized that an electric mixer doesn't work for this recipe. The batter must be beaten by hand until it pulls from the sides of the bowl. This sounds like a task but it's not; there's something homey and satisfying about stirring this thick, glossy batter yourself.

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Cut an 8 by 16-inch piece of parchment paper. Lightly butter an 8 by 8 by 2-inch pan and line it with the parchment, allowing it to extend evenly over the opposite sides. Butter the parchment including the paper on the sides of the pan.

Place the chocolate and butter in a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of gently simmering water and stir occasionally until melted and smooth. Remove from the heat.

With a large rubber spatula or wooden spoon, beat the the sugar and salt into the chocolate mixture. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the flour and mix vigorously until the batter is very glossy and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Break the nuts into large pieces over the butter and fold them in.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and tap the pan bottom on the countertop to level the batter. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the center comes out moist but clean.

Let cool in the pan on a cooling rack for 10 minutes. Remove the brownies from the pan using the parchment “handles”, and cool completely on the rack before cutting into 2-inch squares.
Photo: Essence of Chocolate, Hyperion, 2006.
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