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 WINE & SPIRITS WITH PANACHE
2005's
Remarkable Releases
Of the many wines that became available in 2005 now crowding
retail-shop shelves and restaurant lists, here are four offering
top quality and excellent value. |
By
Geoff Kalish, M.D. |
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Domestic
White
2004 Grgich Hills Fumé Blanc
($24*)
Better known for its critically acclaimed Chardonnay and Cabernet
Sauvignon, Napa Valley vintner Grgich Hills Cellars also produces
outstanding Fumé Blanc. Made from 100%-estate-grown
Sauvignon Blanc grapes, the wine was partially barrel-fermented,
with a portion (40%) aged for five months in three-year-old
French oak. The finished product has a fragrant bouquet and
a complex taste of mango, grapefruit and exotic herbs, with
a crisp, refreshing finish. The wine pairs perfectly with
shellfish and mild cheeses, and is ready to drink now and
over the next two to three years. |
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Domestic
Red
2004 Morgan Twelve Clones Pinot Noir
($30)
Obsessed with producing reds to rival French Burgundy, a number
of California vintners have turned to a selection of Pinot
Noir clones planted in cool climates. This wine – made
from 12 clones of grapes grown in Monterey's wind-cooled
Santa Lucia Highlands (just west of the Salinas Valley) –
aesthetically mimics brands from France's Côte
de Beaune. It has a brick-red color, a bouquet of ripe cherries
and spice, and a concentrated taste of fruit and herbs. The
wine marries well with a wide range of fare – including
chicken, lamb and salmon. Enjoy it now and over the next five
to six years. |
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International
White
2004 Verget “Cuvée de la
Butte” Chablis ($28)
In a world awash in overripe, overoaked California and Australian
Chardonnay and overpriced, acidic, flavorless French White
Burgundy, this wine is a revelation. Vinified from ripe Chardonnay
grapes grown on a steep slope just southwest of the village
of Chablis, the fermented juice is allowed to sit for a prolonged
period on the lees (sediment at the bottom of the fermentation
tank), to enhance flavor and complexity. It has a golden color,
a bouquet of thyme, nuts and pears, and a dry, rich taste
of citrus and vanilla with a memorable finish. Drink it now
and over the next six to eight years with oysters, fish and
veal. |
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International
Red
2003 Valentin Bianchi Particular Malbec
($30)
While only a minor part of some Bordeaux blends, Malbec has
emerged over the past century as the most important varietal
for Argentinean reds. The Bianchi Particular contains 100%-hand-harvested
Malbec from the Dona Elsa Estate in Mendoza. Following fermentation,
the wine was aged in new oak barrels (80% French, 20% American)
for 14 months. It exhibits a deep purple color, a bouquet
of rich ripe fruit and spice, and an intense taste of raspberries,
plums and vanilla, with a long, smooth finish. Try it now
and over the next four to five years with grilled beef, lamb
or hearty pasta dishes. |
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| Geoff
Kalish, M.D., has been writing about wine, food and travel
for more than 25 years, and has lectured in the U.S. and internationally
about matching wine with food. |
| *All
prices listed are suggested retail. |
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